Everything becomes a blur - Part 2 (Santo Domingo to Leon)
It seems like ages ago that we were in Santo Domingo, although it has only been five days. From Santo Domingo we rode to Burgos; from Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes; from Carrion de Los Condes to Sahagun; and, finally, from Sahagun to Leon. In Leon we are enjoying a rest day before completing the second half of the journey. Yes, second half. We have ridden approximately 350 kilometers and have remaining approximately 300 more to go. We have also been travelling for a little over 1/2 the time we will be away from Edmonton. Our rest day coincides with Sandy's birthday and father's day and in many ways, celebrations have been a part of our trip.
Readers will recall that in Pamplona we arrived to the celebration of their cities marathon, and some other festivals we were unable to establish. In Logrono we arrived to the cities saints feast day. The theme continued when we arrived in Sahagun for their cities saints feast days celebrated with bullfighting, including the running of the bulls directly outside our hotel room windows. We arrived in Leon for the weekend, and while there is not a special feast day happening it is the weekend which brings with it other cultural challenges to our trip.
In Spain one quickly learns society moves to a rhythm quite different than our North American world expects. It has taken some adjustments on our part to manage our days. Typically we arise around 7:30 and quickly pack our luggage for transfer to the next hotel. Breakfast during the week has typically been at 7 or 7:30 following which we begin our ride for the day. Depending on our distance and the terrain we've been arriving at our next stop sometime between 2 and 4 in the afternoon. We shower, explore the town or city, have a beer (Sandy) or Rum and Coke (Jim), then a siesta. Dinner will not be available until 7:30 at the earliest, more typically 8:30 or 9 pm. Dinner is followed quickly by sleep and we repeat the following day.
The challenges, for us, are 1) that we tend to be riding during the morning hours of most businesses, and 2) adapting our eating habits to coincide with that of the Spanish hosts along the Camino. Businesses hours are predominantly from 10 am until 2 pm and 5 pm until 9 or 10 pm during the week. 10 am until 2 pm on Saturday; and closed on Sunday. So, we miss the morning hours as we ride between stops. Our afternoon stops might provide opportunity but the best place to find shops meeting our needs are in cities - and in the cities we've visited (with the exception of Burgos) - the shops have been closed for weekends or festivities.
Our first day out we had some issues with leaky tire on Sandy's bike. We repaired the problem with one of the two inner tubes provided with the bikes. In Sandy's mind it was the only spare inner tube that we had and she's been concerned that we get another as soon as we could. I wasn't aware of Sandy's concern knowing we had a spare tube but, it's always good to have a second back up - we've been in some rural areas where more than one flat would have created some major challenges. In Burgos we became entranced by the Cathedral and forgot about the issue altogether. Finally, determined to find a bike shop in we googled them, found one that would be open on Saturday evening - all others were closed until Monday. We walked to the store only to find it no longer existed. In the conversation that followed we realized our miscommunication over the tubes and the problem became less urgent - it is after all a first world problem.
Dinners, too, have required adjustment on our part. Restaurants REALLY do not open until 8:30 or 9. In Logrono we made a reservation assured by the hotel clerk it would be a challenge because of the holiday. We were on time for 8:30 and were the only people in the restaurant until about 9:30 when it started filling with customers. The Spanish do not eat early in the evening. We, who are used to eating at 5 or 5:30 most days at home have had to adapt.
Now for a change in subject I'll shift to our cycling. The days from Santo Domingo to Burgos; then, Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes, were the two most difficult thus far in the trip.
Santo Domingo to Burgos was approximately 60 kilometers with a substantial mountain pass along the way climbing to just over 1100 meters before dropping into Burgos at about 850 meters. Following the highway was a challenge. Just outside of Santo Domingo the quiet road we'd been riding merged with the substantially busier A-20. The "A-" highways in Spain are the freeways where cyclists and other slow moving vehicles are prohibited. The N-120 (which we've been following) from Santo Domingo becomes filled with transport trucks and their cargo. The mountain pass at it's worst was 3 kilometers at an average 6 percent climb. Much of it a narrow two lane road with narrow shoulders. The trucks were going in both directions. It was, in a word, terrifying. climbing slowly on a bicycle (at less than 10 kilometers and hour) as trucks passed at 70, 80, 90 km/hr was hard. Thankfully, at the top of the pass the road widened and we sped up. It was good to be done the ride that day.
Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes was a nicer ride. While it began with a couple of hills as we made the climb and transition to the Meseta plain the riding was pleasant and less difficult than the previous afternoon. Once on the plain the wind came up a little, and the ultimately it combined with the distance (and the residual tiredness of the previous days ride) worked us to our fullest. The last 20 kilometers seemed particularly hard and exhausting. We were grateful for a very quiet road, and beautiful scenery nonetheless.
From Carrion de Los Condes into Leon, via Sahagun, were pleasant riding days. We delayed departing Carrion until 11 am and completed the ride by about 1:30 pm. The following day we were uncertain about routing - the N-120 that we've been following dipped south adding about 15 kilometers if we continued to follow it. Thankfully, a narrow country road follows the Camino Trail almost all the way from Sahagun into Leon. It was by far the easiest and most pleasant of the riding days that we've had.
That brings us to Leon where we've been enjoying a rest day visiting the Cathedral, the Convent of San Isadore, and the Basillica. The history in Leon is easily traced to the arrival of Roman Legions in 30 B.C.E. For much of the Roman era it was called Legio. After the collapse of the Roman Empire in the middle of the first millenia it maintained a Roman flavour and there are remnants of the Roman Era around the countryside. While the Moors were present in Spain between the fall of the Roman Empire and their defeat in the 12th century there appears to be less moorish influence in this part of Spain than I've experienced in Portugal where moorish influences can be seen in architecture and language more clearly.
Finally, one other conversation that our visit in Leon has sparked. We are in a hotel close to the old city and have spent most of our time seeing sites in that district. In much of the old city the roads are narrow and vehicle access is limited. Last evening we found a restaurant with a patio along one of the wider roads. The street was crowded with pedestrians - think playoff hockey, Jasper Avenue crowded. They were pedestrians of all ages - new born babies to seniors in wheel chairs being pushed by their children. There were families, couples, wedding parties, and parades that all happened as we ate dinner. Sandy and I began a conversation, again, about the culture differences between here and North America once more. There were few cell phones - not nearly to the degree we would notice them at home. People seldom carry coffee, or snacks with them as they walk. They are visiting, greeting friends, engaging with one another in an atmosphere that feels safe, even festive. We wonder what we have lost in the production oriented, consumerist culture of our home as we watch.
Readers will recall that in Pamplona we arrived to the celebration of their cities marathon, and some other festivals we were unable to establish. In Logrono we arrived to the cities saints feast day. The theme continued when we arrived in Sahagun for their cities saints feast days celebrated with bullfighting, including the running of the bulls directly outside our hotel room windows. We arrived in Leon for the weekend, and while there is not a special feast day happening it is the weekend which brings with it other cultural challenges to our trip.
In Spain one quickly learns society moves to a rhythm quite different than our North American world expects. It has taken some adjustments on our part to manage our days. Typically we arise around 7:30 and quickly pack our luggage for transfer to the next hotel. Breakfast during the week has typically been at 7 or 7:30 following which we begin our ride for the day. Depending on our distance and the terrain we've been arriving at our next stop sometime between 2 and 4 in the afternoon. We shower, explore the town or city, have a beer (Sandy) or Rum and Coke (Jim), then a siesta. Dinner will not be available until 7:30 at the earliest, more typically 8:30 or 9 pm. Dinner is followed quickly by sleep and we repeat the following day.
The challenges, for us, are 1) that we tend to be riding during the morning hours of most businesses, and 2) adapting our eating habits to coincide with that of the Spanish hosts along the Camino. Businesses hours are predominantly from 10 am until 2 pm and 5 pm until 9 or 10 pm during the week. 10 am until 2 pm on Saturday; and closed on Sunday. So, we miss the morning hours as we ride between stops. Our afternoon stops might provide opportunity but the best place to find shops meeting our needs are in cities - and in the cities we've visited (with the exception of Burgos) - the shops have been closed for weekends or festivities.
Our first day out we had some issues with leaky tire on Sandy's bike. We repaired the problem with one of the two inner tubes provided with the bikes. In Sandy's mind it was the only spare inner tube that we had and she's been concerned that we get another as soon as we could. I wasn't aware of Sandy's concern knowing we had a spare tube but, it's always good to have a second back up - we've been in some rural areas where more than one flat would have created some major challenges. In Burgos we became entranced by the Cathedral and forgot about the issue altogether. Finally, determined to find a bike shop in we googled them, found one that would be open on Saturday evening - all others were closed until Monday. We walked to the store only to find it no longer existed. In the conversation that followed we realized our miscommunication over the tubes and the problem became less urgent - it is after all a first world problem.
Dinners, too, have required adjustment on our part. Restaurants REALLY do not open until 8:30 or 9. In Logrono we made a reservation assured by the hotel clerk it would be a challenge because of the holiday. We were on time for 8:30 and were the only people in the restaurant until about 9:30 when it started filling with customers. The Spanish do not eat early in the evening. We, who are used to eating at 5 or 5:30 most days at home have had to adapt.
Now for a change in subject I'll shift to our cycling. The days from Santo Domingo to Burgos; then, Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes, were the two most difficult thus far in the trip.
Santo Domingo to Burgos was approximately 60 kilometers with a substantial mountain pass along the way climbing to just over 1100 meters before dropping into Burgos at about 850 meters. Following the highway was a challenge. Just outside of Santo Domingo the quiet road we'd been riding merged with the substantially busier A-20. The "A-" highways in Spain are the freeways where cyclists and other slow moving vehicles are prohibited. The N-120 (which we've been following) from Santo Domingo becomes filled with transport trucks and their cargo. The mountain pass at it's worst was 3 kilometers at an average 6 percent climb. Much of it a narrow two lane road with narrow shoulders. The trucks were going in both directions. It was, in a word, terrifying. climbing slowly on a bicycle (at less than 10 kilometers and hour) as trucks passed at 70, 80, 90 km/hr was hard. Thankfully, at the top of the pass the road widened and we sped up. It was good to be done the ride that day.
Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes was a nicer ride. While it began with a couple of hills as we made the climb and transition to the Meseta plain the riding was pleasant and less difficult than the previous afternoon. Once on the plain the wind came up a little, and the ultimately it combined with the distance (and the residual tiredness of the previous days ride) worked us to our fullest. The last 20 kilometers seemed particularly hard and exhausting. We were grateful for a very quiet road, and beautiful scenery nonetheless.
From Carrion de Los Condes into Leon, via Sahagun, were pleasant riding days. We delayed departing Carrion until 11 am and completed the ride by about 1:30 pm. The following day we were uncertain about routing - the N-120 that we've been following dipped south adding about 15 kilometers if we continued to follow it. Thankfully, a narrow country road follows the Camino Trail almost all the way from Sahagun into Leon. It was by far the easiest and most pleasant of the riding days that we've had.
That brings us to Leon where we've been enjoying a rest day visiting the Cathedral, the Convent of San Isadore, and the Basillica. The history in Leon is easily traced to the arrival of Roman Legions in 30 B.C.E. For much of the Roman era it was called Legio. After the collapse of the Roman Empire in the middle of the first millenia it maintained a Roman flavour and there are remnants of the Roman Era around the countryside. While the Moors were present in Spain between the fall of the Roman Empire and their defeat in the 12th century there appears to be less moorish influence in this part of Spain than I've experienced in Portugal where moorish influences can be seen in architecture and language more clearly.
Finally, one other conversation that our visit in Leon has sparked. We are in a hotel close to the old city and have spent most of our time seeing sites in that district. In much of the old city the roads are narrow and vehicle access is limited. Last evening we found a restaurant with a patio along one of the wider roads. The street was crowded with pedestrians - think playoff hockey, Jasper Avenue crowded. They were pedestrians of all ages - new born babies to seniors in wheel chairs being pushed by their children. There were families, couples, wedding parties, and parades that all happened as we ate dinner. Sandy and I began a conversation, again, about the culture differences between here and North America once more. There were few cell phones - not nearly to the degree we would notice them at home. People seldom carry coffee, or snacks with them as they walk. They are visiting, greeting friends, engaging with one another in an atmosphere that feels safe, even festive. We wonder what we have lost in the production oriented, consumerist culture of our home as we watch.
It sounds like an awesome trip, at times a bit difficult but interesting.
ReplyDeleteHave fun, stay safe, god bless.
Frances and Reese.
Great adventure. Your ears must have buzzing today ... talking about you on Sunday Ardrossan ride. Happy Birthday Sandy and Happy Father's Day Jim.
ReplyDelete