From Paris to St Jean Pied de Port...The beginning of the Camino
We're travelling on a train at 300 km/hr south from Paris to St. Jean Pied de Port. We begin walking tomorrow and cycling on Saturday. We've spent the past few days in Paris which has given me much to think about. A brief discussion on facebook between Sandy's aunt and brother caused some reflection on the cultural differences between North America and Europe, Canadians and Parisians. Together with a couple of other moments I have some thoughts about "us" and "them".
The conversation on facebook began with some comments about the sense of Parisians as rude and unwelcoming. That was not our experience of the people that we encountered. Certainly, I'd heard the comments before in other times and other places. At home, in Portugal, from others who'd been to Paris before me. The clerk at the hotel who welcomed us made reference to the "reputation" they have in the rest of the world. Yet, in the first two days I had two unsolicited encounters with strangers concerned for my security. Both approached me concerned about my belongings (my cell phone and my wallet); warning me about the hazards of pickpockets. On the subway, and in lines for some of the attractions there were similar cautions - to be aware of your belongings and their security.
In all of the restaurants that we ate there were differences in service that gave credence to the idea that Parisians can be standoffish, even rude. Servers in the restaurants did not hover as I've come to expect of servers in North American restaurants. They did not return to the table to inquire about the quality of the food, and the bill was only brought to us when requested. We were given time to linger. We were given time to enjoy the meal and company as we ate. In one restaurant, where we were in a bit of a hurry the hostess was surprised that we did not want dessert (I'd have loved dessert, we just didn't have time). The servers had worked hard to communicate with us in a language that is not their own. There were moments of laughter as we ordered and tried to communicate ourselves in broken French, or looking for the English word needed for them to understand what we were saying. In short, I found the Parisians we encountered reserved, but welcoming. Helpful (when we needed) and willing to give us the space to be comfortable in an new place.
We spent yesterday at Versailles exploring the palace and seeing the grounds (it was raining, we didn't spend much time in the gardens - which are huge and beautiful). That time added to the thoughts about "us and them" - this time the differences between English and French and the ways in which our history is told differently. Thoughts about the relationship between symbolism and power. It the grandeur of the Palace it was easy to see how the trappings of monarchy were reflected in the rooms. How it would feel as a "commoner" to encounter the government of the time and today.
Versailles began as a hunting lodge, built by King Louis III. It came into it's own during the reign of Louis XIV and served as the home of the monarchy from the middle of the 17th Century until the French Revolution in 1789. After the turmoil of the Revolution ended approximately 75 years later the Palace became a museum displaying the power of the French culture. It is the largest of the European Palaces. I know it best as the place where the Treaty of Versailles was signed ending the first World War and, perhaps, setting the stage for the second. Yet, that later history was not a part of the displays. The history as presented at Versailles covers the period of it's dominion in the approximately 150 or 200 years between 1600 and 1800 when the protestors arrived forcing Marie Antoinette to flee.
There was, for me, a difference between the presentation of French history (that I know little about) and the way that British and Canadian history is presented. I was surprised to see little reference to the place of France as a colonial power alongside England, Portugal, Spain and the Netherlands. The one painting representing the French role as a colonial power connected the nation to the support of the American Revolution as partners in the defeat of the English in 1776. Unlike Portugal's pride as explorers of the world and their discoveries in the late 1400's, there was little or no mention of that history at Versailles.
Instead the focus was on the building of the French nation from Charlemagne to Louis XVI. It was that history that I knew little about (and the following turmoil as Napoleon became emperor until the commune and Industrial revolution gave rise to modern France.) There was little discussion of the relationship between church and state; where English history remembers the significance of the struggles between Catholicism and Protestantism as central. Napoleon was mentioned in one painting as Emperor of France and King of Italy. The difference in the way history is presented causes me to ponder the differences that exist today in our own corner of the world - where English defeated French and, yet, we continue to discuss the relationship between our "founding Nations." What implications do the differences in history (and how we understand those differences) have as we consider official languages, reconciliation with first nations, and more?
Finally I'd like to offer some reflection on my experience of Paris - what I like, what I didn't like; and the great cities of the world.
Paris is a city which, in the words of our tour guide to Vimy, there is no need to own a car. People do, but between the Metro and the lay of the land there was, indeed, little need for a vehicle. We've become adept at moving from one place to another by Metro - 13 lines criss-cross the city. It's inexpensive (1.90 Euros - less than a bus ticket in Edmonton) will get you anywhere you want to go. There are 37 bridges crossing the river and the land is largely flat - an easy walk just about anywhere one goes. Wide streets, sidewalk cafes and millions of tourists mean that it is busier than most other places we've been. But, unlike Toronto, New York and London there isn't gridlock in the middle of the city. The "downtown" would be difficult to identify. There are 20 different districts in the city some of which are identified as neighbourhoods - our Hotel was at the edge of the 3rd, 4th and 11th districts near the Marais neighbourhood which is shared by all three districts. There are relatively few modern "skyscrapers." Most buildings are 5 or six floors in height and many would date to the middle of the 1800's - or before; renovated and updated for electricity, internet and more. A few reflect the days of horse and carriage. It is a beautiful place.
All that said, the 5 or 6 days we were there has proven enough for me. We'd seen most of the sites; and as we often do, left a few for when we return. It was crowded with tourists during what would best be described as the "shoulder seasons" - the real crowds come later in the summer. Yet, we didn't eat a meal without other tourists around us. Languages from around the world abound. It is enjoyable but as my attention turns to the next steps (literally) of our journey I'm ready for what's next.
We're travelling on a train at 300 km/hr south from Paris to St. Jean Pied de Port. We begin walking tomorrow and cycling on Saturday. We've spent the past few days in Paris which has given me much to think about. A brief discussion on facebook between Sandy's aunt and brother caused some reflection on the cultural differences between North America and Europe, Canadians and Parisians. Together with a couple of other moments I have some thoughts about "us" and "them".
The conversation on facebook began with some comments about the sense of Parisians as rude and unwelcoming. That was not our experience of the people that we encountered. Certainly, I'd heard the comments before in other times and other places. At home, in Portugal, from others who'd been to Paris before me. The clerk at the hotel who welcomed us made reference to the "reputation" they have in the rest of the world. Yet, in the first two days I had two unsolicited encounters with strangers concerned for my security. Both approached me concerned about my belongings (my cell phone and my wallet); warning me about the hazards of pickpockets. On the subway, and in lines for some of the attractions there were similar cautions - to be aware of your belongings and their security.
In all of the restaurants that we ate there were differences in service that gave credence to the idea that Parisians can be standoffish, even rude. Servers in the restaurants did not hover as I've come to expect of servers in North American restaurants. They did not return to the table to inquire about the quality of the food, and the bill was only brought to us when requested. We were given time to linger. We were given time to enjoy the meal and company as we ate. In one restaurant, where we were in a bit of a hurry the hostess was surprised that we did not want dessert (I'd have loved dessert, we just didn't have time). The servers had worked hard to communicate with us in a language that is not their own. There were moments of laughter as we ordered and tried to communicate ourselves in broken French, or looking for the English word needed for them to understand what we were saying. In short, I found the Parisians we encountered reserved, but welcoming. Helpful (when we needed) and willing to give us the space to be comfortable in an new place.
The Gardens at Versailles
We spent yesterday at Versailles exploring the palace and seeing the grounds (it was raining, we didn't spend much time in the gardens - which are huge and beautiful). That time added to the thoughts about "us and them" - this time the differences between English and French and the ways in which our history is told differently. Thoughts about the relationship between symbolism and power. It the grandeur of the Palace it was easy to see how the trappings of monarchy were reflected in the rooms. How it would feel as a "commoner" to encounter the government of the time and today.
Versailles began as a hunting lodge, built by King Louis III. It came into it's own during the reign of Louis XIV and served as the home of the monarchy from the middle of the 17th Century until the French Revolution in 1789. After the turmoil of the Revolution ended approximately 75 years later the Palace became a museum displaying the power of the French culture. It is the largest of the European Palaces. I know it best as the place where the Treaty of Versailles was signed ending the first World War and, perhaps, setting the stage for the second. Yet, that later history was not a part of the displays. The history as presented at Versailles covers the period of it's dominion in the approximately 150 or 200 years between 1600 and 1800 when the protestors arrived forcing Marie Antoinette to flee.
There was, for me, a difference between the presentation of French history (that I know little about) and the way that British and Canadian history is presented. I was surprised to see little reference to the place of France as a colonial power alongside England, Portugal, Spain and the Netherlands. The one painting representing the French role as a colonial power connected the nation to the support of the American Revolution as partners in the defeat of the English in 1776. Unlike Portugal's pride as explorers of the world and their discoveries in the late 1400's, there was little or no mention of that history at Versailles.
Instead the focus was on the building of the French nation from Charlemagne to Louis XVI. It was that history that I knew little about (and the following turmoil as Napoleon became emperor until the commune and Industrial revolution gave rise to modern France.) There was little discussion of the relationship between church and state; where English history remembers the significance of the struggles between Catholicism and Protestantism as central. Napoleon was mentioned in one painting as Emperor of France and King of Italy. The difference in the way history is presented causes me to ponder the differences that exist today in our own corner of the world - where English defeated French and, yet, we continue to discuss the relationship between our "founding Nations." What implications do the differences in history (and how we understand those differences) have as we consider official languages, reconciliation with first nations, and more?
Finally I'd like to offer some reflection on my experience of Paris - what I like, what I didn't like; and the great cities of the world.
The view from the Opera looking toward the Louvre.
Paris is a city which, in the words of our tour guide to Vimy, there is no need to own a car. People do, but between the Metro and the lay of the land there was, indeed, little need for a vehicle. We've become adept at moving from one place to another by Metro - 13 lines criss-cross the city. It's inexpensive (1.90 Euros - less than a bus ticket in Edmonton) will get you anywhere you want to go. There are 37 bridges crossing the river and the land is largely flat - an easy walk just about anywhere one goes. Wide streets, sidewalk cafes and millions of tourists mean that it is busier than most other places we've been. But, unlike Toronto, New York and London there isn't gridlock in the middle of the city. The "downtown" would be difficult to identify. There are 20 different districts in the city some of which are identified as neighbourhoods - our Hotel was at the edge of the 3rd, 4th and 11th districts near the Marais neighbourhood which is shared by all three districts. There are relatively few modern "skyscrapers." Most buildings are 5 or six floors in height and many would date to the middle of the 1800's - or before; renovated and updated for electricity, internet and more. A few reflect the days of horse and carriage. It is a beautiful place.
All that said, the 5 or 6 days we were there has proven enough for me. We'd seen most of the sites; and as we often do, left a few for when we return. It was crowded with tourists during what would best be described as the "shoulder seasons" - the real crowds come later in the summer. Yet, we didn't eat a meal without other tourists around us. Languages from around the world abound. It is enjoyable but as my attention turns to the next steps (literally) of our journey I'm ready for what's next.
Thanks for the eloquent details.
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